Cleaning Camera Sensor Dust - CCD

cleaning camera sensor dust - ccd, blue, camera sensor, ccd sensor, dslr, image sensor, photography, sensor brush, sensor dust, sensor swabs, visible dust
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Cleaning Camera Sensor Dust - CCD

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Playa dust on my DSLR Camera CCD sensor, ouch!

This is a sensor test photo that i took at Burning Man 2008.

I have never seen as much dust on my sensor. Good thing I know how to clean a CCD sensor :)

To do a DSLR Camera CCD sensor test photo:

- Use a long lens / telephoto zoom (it will work better than with a wide angle)

- Set in A mode with the diaphragm (aperture) closed to the maximum (i.e. maximum F-value, F32)

- Set the camera to manual focus and make it completely out of focus, so if you see a dot on the test shot, it will be dust (and not a bird in the sky!)

- Shoot the sky or something uniform and featureless (like a sheet of white paper)

To clean, I recommend a Giottos Rocket air blower to remove the bulk of the dust, then you can use the wet sensor swabs (with 100% pure methanol optical solution, also called methylic alcohol) to remove sticky particles that don't go with the air blower, if necessary.

When blowing the dust with an air blower, hold the camera with the face down, so that the sensor is up. this way the dislodged dust will fall away from the sensor, rather than falling back on it. Doing this does help. Also, try to not touch the sensor with the blower. If you touch it, it probably won't damage your sensor, but it might let a mark that would require being cleaned using swabs and methanol.

In many cases, the sensor can be cleaned completely with just the air blower. If that does not work because there are some very sticky particles on your sensor, then proceed with the wet swabs.

Don't put more than a couple of drops of methanol on the swab, otherwise it would be too wet and leave deposit marks on the sensor. You will have to clean several times before getting a clean sensor, especially the first time. To clean, you must sweep the swab on the sensor from side to side. For best results, the width of the swab should the exact width of your sensor, so that you only need one sweep. Swabs made by Visible Dust. are excellent quality, I use those. After sweeping, put back the lens and do a test shot, then zoom on the image and check if there is still dust. usually the dust is located near the corners or near the edges. if you see dust, repeat the process.

Camera sensor cleaning was painful at the beginning, it took me one hour to get all the dust OFF the first time. But now i can do it in two of three iterations, and it takes 10 min or so, and I am no the least nervous about doing it on my expensive camera.

Also, remember that if you have dust on your DSLR sensor, it will probably not show on your photos if you shoot with maximum apperture (i.e. minimum F value, e.g. F2.8 or F3.5). So if you have dust on the sensor and must continue to shoot with the dust, remember to shoot in A-mode (apperture priority) and use maximum apperture, i.e. use the minimum F value of your lens.

Dry-cleaning the sensor with rotating brushes charged with static electricity will work only with the dry, non-sticky particles on the sensor. But it will not cleanup sticky or greasy particles. Those can only be removed with a wet swab. So even if you get one of those dry cleaning brushes (e.g. Arctic Butterfly), sometimes you will still need to use the wet swabs.

NEVER ever use a spray can to blow away the dust inside the camera. The very cold gas out of the air-can would cause irreparable damage (micro-cracks) to your sensor.

There are other CCD cleaning options available, but that's what I use and it works well for me. Or you can pay a professional to do it, but it usually takes several days and it's not cheap, and this is not always possible if you travel. So you'd better learn how to do it yourself.

Photo taken at the Burning Man 2008 festival (Black Rock Desert, Nevada).

Date & GPS location
Photo taken on August 31, 2008
Unnamed Rd, Imlay, NV, USA
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